‘Outlander’ Costume Designer on Wedding Dresses, Kilts and Corsets

outlander-wedding

Starz’s time-traveling romance drama “Outlander” is a series caught between two historical periods: one “present day” when England limps back to recovery after World War II and another as it fights to wrestle Scotland under its control during the 1700s. Parallels to current events aside, the show also creates a costuming challenge for connecting (and differentiating) the two worlds through the eyes of heroine Claire Randall (Caitriona Balfe).

This all comes full-circle in Saturday’s episode, with Claire’s reluctant marriage to the brave and headstrong Scottish warrior Jamie Fraser (Sam Heughan). The episode has a lot riding on it, as fans of the books on which the series is based have heavily anticipated this moment — and, naturally, a lot of their attention will be directed toward the wedding attire. To get the lowdown on dressing the characters for this and other moments of the series, Variety talked with series costume designer Terry Dresbach. (warning: some spoilers follow).

OK, we have to talk about this wedding dress.

What a surprise!

I had about 5,000 dress pictures on my wall of every conceivable look that existed and I had really had gotten directions from Ron [Moore, the show’s creator and Dresbach’s husband] that this needed to be a fairy tale; a beautiful moment that cements and entire book series and an entire television series. It’s a series about a marriage and the foundation is this moment, but it’s two people who didn’t know each other and who didn’t plan to be married and are being forced into this. And yet, we had to make it so impossibly romantic that we could believe that our heroine and our hero could just fall in love so completely at that moment.

So, I wanted a dress that would be incredible in candlelight. And in the 18th century, metallic fabrics were made with actual metal woven into the fabrics. When you put them in a room filled with candles, they just glow. They’re quite remarkable. There are museum exhibits that actually show the dresses in candlelight so you can see the effect.

We also needed a dress that a modern audience could believe was a wedding dress from a period where they didn’t really have wedding dresses. People weren’t wearing white gowns. We needed something that could straddle that line.

Now on top of that, I have a character who is from another time period and I didn’t want something too frilly or to fluffy for her. And Caitriona is so extraordinary and so beautiful that I just wanted something to be kind of clean and simple and drop-dead ornate, so we were serving a lot of masters on this dress.

SEE ALSO: Ron Moore on Adapting ‘Outlander’ for Starz, Dispelling ‘Game of Thrones’ Comparisons

It would also have to be something that was readily available, because they didn’t plan to get married that day.

This is a dress that they found at a local whorehouse. When Ron told me that, I screamed at him for about four hours. Like really? You realize that whores wear clothes that advertise they’re whores, right? That’s the whole point.

Then he concocted the idea that the dress had been paid for by a wealthy man for services, so they had this dress stashed away in the back. That allowed us the liberty to make something spectacular and amazing.

Is that also why there’s so much cleavage involved in the dress?

The cleavage is involved in the dress because in the 18th century, there were those kinds of dresses. We’ll see next season when we go to the French court, there’s a lot of cleavage. Victoria’s Secret doesn’t fake the 18th century on their runways for no reason.

But that dress took us — we calculated it out at about, I think if one person had done it, it would have been about 3,000 hours worth of work. We did a technique of embroidery that was done hundreds of years and is no longer used. The embroidery is done with metal.

SEE ALSO: Starz’s ‘Outlander’ Woos Women with Strong Female Protagonist

Speaking of the corsets, did you have to do a lot of research into the undergarments as well?

We had to no matter what. Any time you see our characters on screen, they’re 18th century top to bottom. When we get Caitriona — or any of our characters — dressed ever single day, she goes into a corset, she goes into a shift. She’s not wearing a T-shirt under there. So we have corsets and corsets and more corsets. But this was a very, very special one. We knew that because the way the scene was laid out, she was going to spend a lot of time in these garments and we wanted it to be a sensual and beautiful that the audience wants to reach out and touch them.

The embroidery you see on that corset is from a beautiful piece of material that I found on Portobello Road [in London]. It was sitting in an antique stall there and I had it under my desk. When we started doing it, I went oh! I’ve got the perfect thing.

I don’t mean this to sound as disrespectful as it sounds. But when it comes to dressing the characters and their undergarments, I’m assuming this goes for the men and their kilts as well?

You know what, I don’t ask. I generally make a rule of not asking the men what they wear under their clothes. It gets me into trouble. We lie their kilts out for them on the floors of their trailers and they wrap themselves up. What they put on underneath, I don’t know. I’d like to think they’re riding around horseback bareback, but I can’t imagine.

As far as the kilts go, tell me how you developed the colors for Jaime and the clan’s tartans.

There’s a huge debate — I talk to fans all the time who are still having a debate with me about the weaving of the 18th century. There’s a school of thought that the really bright-colored tartans that we see today were invented by the Victorians and there were those who say no, they were always there. That’s often the case where you have a lot of conflicting opinions on what was worn historically, so we made it a creative choice based on talking with Ron about the look of the show.

A lot of it was really driven by being here and living in Scotland. I’ve been living in Scotland for two years now. It’s remarkably beautiful and it demands to be seen. After less than two weeks of being here, I was like we have to see that in our clothes. If you really are paying attention, you can look at their clothes and you can look at the environment the people were in and it’s there all over the place.

And then there’s the issue that “present day” for your show is the World War II era. Are you using actual clothes from that time period or where you fashioning everything from scratch?

We made everything on the show. There’s a smattering of rentals on our extras, but we mostly made it all. We made our 18th century stuff and our 1940s stuff. And Caitriona was cast two weeks before we started shooting, so we had to make all of her 18th century wardrobe and all of her 1940s stuff there in two weeks, which was kind of interesting.

Ron always says these are two periods of war, but Britain after World War II was decimated. You still see and you still feel the ramifications. It was a place without color and a lot of joy and happiness. Buttons were rationed and you couldn’t have hems on the bottoms of your pants and you could only have so many pockets, so clothes became very streamlined and somber.

So that’s what we tried to reflect, particularly in Caitriona’s clothing. Her wedding suit is so 1940s with the padded shoulders and she’s wearing a little fedora — no cleavage! A complete contrast. But if you look closely, you’ll notice that both wedding outfits are silvery gray.

I have pictures of my mother from the 1940s and Caitriona, we used pictures of her grandmother getting married in her suit.

I love that you based her “modern day” wedding suit on her grandmother’s wedding suit.

It is quite lovely. Caitriona was so excited. Her grandmother was a World War II nurse, so we have pictures of her grandmother in her nurse’s uniform and we have pictures of her in her wedding suit. There’s a lovely connection there that we were able to utilize with Cat. She’s so amazing with the way she brings those things. You’ll get an email from her at 2 o’clock in the morning with “Look! I found a picture of my grandmother’s wedding suit!.”

A lot of that kind of stuff happens on this show. You don’t just sit down and do a sketch and the next thing you know it’s a costume. Things move in mysterious ways in “Outlander.” There’s a green plaid dress that Caitriona wears that’s inspired by a branch across the road that I had to move when I was driving my car. Ron and I live in a house built in 1632 in Scotland, out in the wilds. Every day, we’re living in it.

“Outlander” airs at 9 p.m. on Starz.

Filed Under:

Want to read more articles like this one? SUBSCRIBE TO VARIETY TODAY.
Post A Comment 15

Leave a Reply

15 Comments

Comments are moderated. They may be edited for clarity and reprinting in whole or in part in Variety publications.

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

  1. Love this article, a bit disappointed that we do not see any work in progress, pics of the fabrics they are chatting about, sketches, etc? Finished product, etc.

  2. Kate Greven says:

    I will not be watching the series, despite how much I would love to see all of the clothes. I am so disappointed by the bizarre choice they made in casting Jamie. Alexander James Mackenzie Frasier is meant to be a Highlands warrior & laird of a manse – in the novel, he towers over everyone else, he is powerfully built & has that notoriously flaming red hair!!! I watched the trailer for about 30 seconds & they lost me in that span of time. IF you miscast the lead character, what hope is there in telling a faithful, engaging, believable story? Not verra likely!!!

    • Casey Jones says:

      Well, you’re the one doing yourself a disservice. Guess what? The book Jamie doesn’t exist. He is made up. They cannot produce a Jamie based 100% on a book. You must compromise. Sam Heughan has done an impeccable job as Jamie and has done everything he can to bring the character to life, even reading the books multiple times.

      The series is faithful, engaging and believable.

      Judging a series based on 30 seconds is childish and does the author, who loves Sam’s Jamie, the actors, and the production team a disservice. You make yourself look extremely close-minded, not a “faithful book fan.”

  3. Please, someone start making and marketing the knitwear Claire has in the 18th century scenes. They’re fantastic.

  4. Doris Cote says:

    I loved the wedding dress and the embroidery was magnificent! Well done. Wish I could have worked on it.

  5. Jeanne says:

    How come you didn’t design the dress in the book? With all the little buttons. Also Jamie was suppose to have a very lacy shirt. The chapter in the book of the wedding was much better. The pearls before the wedding so to get Douglas quiet anger. Which is a hint to what happens in future books. Sorry I see something that is bucking a well thought out idea that has been a best seller 20 years. Dianne was a medical technical writer once. She has the ability to tie things together.

  6. John C. Baker says:

    With reference to the French Court in the 18th Century and cleavage in women’s dresses, there was much more than just “cleavage.” There are historical descriptions of parties and dinners at Versaille where the tops of women’s gown put their breasts “on display” for all to see, uncovered, and propped up by the bodice of the dress specifically designed to accomplish this, although whether this fashion was in effect the last years of the monarchy leading up the the French Revolution or had been around for decades escapes my memory, but it can be researched. Knowing the French thirst for high fashion in the court at the time, it would not surprise me if that tradition of bare-breasted dresses had been around for decades. After all, the Hall of Mirrors was furnished with what outwardly appeared to be large wooden seats, almost throne-like in their character, which were, in actuality, commodes where the ladies would sit and carry on conversations with men and women alike while “doing their business” underneath multiple layers of dress material, a practice unimaginable to us in the modern era. The 18th century concept of social norms and propriety for the highest of society vary greatly from today. Privacy was not a concept the ultra-wealthy ascribed to.

  7. Dawn says:

    Oh, I have no problems with the wedding dress – in fact I was very impressed with the period appropriateness of the dress – it was indeed spectacular, appropriate (given the explanation of its history) and I loved it. My quibble is the number of different outfits Claire appeared in previous episodes (not the period accuracy which I have very much appreciated)..

  8. Dawn says:

    My quibble with the costumes, beautifully constructed as they are – is that for one who arrived in the period with only a ‘shift’ to her name, she all of a sudden has quite a wardrobe! A “good” and an everyday outfit is what one would expect – and it is jarring (even in a filmed version) when all else seems so beautifully period correct.

    • Momo says:

      Dawn,
      she didn’t have much to her name, but she did earn respect with her medical background, and since it was Jamie’s first wedding, he requested it from Dougal as one if his conditions. It’s in the book and in the episode. Also, seeing as how it comes from a brothel, you can see why it was easy to come by.

  9. Lynn Robinson says:

    Is there someplace to purchase a tam like the one worn by Dougal in the show?

  10. Cindy Le Fevre says:

    I am so impressed with the clothes on this show! I have a daughter with a degree in historical clothing and costumes, and she catches all the errors on other shows that are too lazy to get it right. Thank you for your hard work on Outlander! I thought the wedding dress was stunning! It fit both Catriona and the situation perfectly.

  11. Elizabeth Coleman says:

    The costumes for this show are an amazing synthesis of history, craftsmanship, and creativity. Someone is going to make a fortune selling the knitwear alone, never mind the resurgence in the popularity of tartan. On the subject of colors, the beautifully muted ‘hunting’ patterns that pear in the show make perfect sense for everyday wear. However, one has only to look at portraits from the period to realize that the18th century– including 18th century men– loved color; all kinds of color; it was an age of peacocks. Scottishly speaking, dress tartans in reds,yellows, oranges, etc show up along with snowy linens and beautiful lace in numerous pictures, the sitters in their finest ‘party clothes’ in order to look their best for posterity. And on the subject of red, particularly, what is it the British soldiers wear? Same thing they are called: redcoats.

  12. Russell says:

    WOW just what I was searching for. Came here by searching for bing.com

More Artisans News from Variety

Loading