Take a first look at Wolfgang Puck's latest endeavor

Wolfgang Puck’s Cut at the Regent Beverly Wilshire is the newest restaurant to specialize in steaks priced to track the silver market. However, as the brainchild of Hollywood’s house chef, it’s more than another place to spend $400 on dinner for two. Among those who nabbed a reservation for Monday’s opening night were Jeffrey Katzenberg, Rick Nicita and Paula Wagner, the Kopelsons and Christina Aguilera. If you have any pull with the Puck, prepare to use it.

THEY SAY
“We wanted to do a modern steakhouse and give them something different than what they have at Spago or Chinois,” Puck says. “We want the food to be simple and of the best quality, like the restaurant (design). We think we’re going to attract a younger clientele.”

WE SAY
THE GOOD God bless architects Richard Meier and Michael Palladino, who designed the restaurant down to the sugar bowls. Formerly a stodgy hotel dining room, Cut now has skylights and white-oak floors that help the space strike a balance between sleek, airy and comfortable. Prime seats are the leather-cushioned booths, but there’s plenty of room between tables, the better to accommodate old-school tableside service demanded from dishes like pan-roasted lobster with truffle sabayon. As for the beef, the bone-in ribeye may be the most tender we’ve ever carved. And an updated crab Louis on a round of horseradish-infused custard could be a meal in itself (and no doubt will be if Cut opens for lunch).
THE BAD Creamed spinach topped with a fried egg; French fries served with bearnaise sauce; soft Parmesan polenta. It’s all tasty, of course — and that bearnaise is flawless — but it’s not what we want to eat in the first week of June. Besides, Puck doesn’t have to follow anyone; why should his side dishes repeat the overly familiar, over-the-top comfort food of the steakhouse craze?

NEED TO KNOW
9500 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 276-8500. Open for dinner Sun.-Thurs. 5:30 p.m.- 10 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 5:30 p.m. -10:30 p.m. Valet parking on Rodeo Boulevard.

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