“Cafe Americain” is undergoing another ownership change before the NBC series hits the air.

Marion Ross, cast only last month as the crusty proprietor of the French cafe where star Valerie Bertinelli goes to work, is almost just as quickly leaving the series — replaced by Lilah Kaye, who originally played the role in the pilot.

Warner Bros. TV confirmed the switch, made after three days of rehearsal before Tuesday night’s taping. “Marion is a wonderful actress,” exec producer Peter Noah said in a statement, “but we were asking her to play a character that totally goes against her nature.”

“Cafe Americain” will air at 8:30 p.m. Saturdays.

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